Step1:
The first job with any plumbing is to turn off the water supply, hopefuly you will have an isolating valve next to your toilet cistern, otherwise turn it off at the stopcock, which can usually be found under the kitchen sink and looks like an old brass tap. Once the water is turned off, remove the bulk of the water from the cistern by simply flushing it. Once you have done this you can undo the pipe connector with your grips on the bottom or side of your cistern supplying the water to the fill valve.
Remove the lid from your cistern and take out the old push button.

Step 2:
You will now need to get into your toilet cistern to remove the remaining water and the fixings holding it to the wall and pan. Remove the flush button from your old valve, this may require unscrewing whilst holding the buttons down, as it may be fixed to your old flush valve, however, most lids should lift off and have the button fixed to the lid with a backnut. This back nut should undo by hand with no problems and you can remove the button from the lid and clean round the hole in the cistern lid ready for the new button. You wont need the back nut from the old button as the new button is a complete set.
Towel out any remaining water in the cistern into the pan

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Step 3:
You will need to use a towel to towel out any remaining water from within the cistern to avoid making a mess and to access the screws holding the cistern onto the pan. You will now be able to see two screws at the bottom of the cistern holding it to the pan, which have a pair of wing nuts underneath the pan. Also, you should see two screws at the top of the inside of the cistern holding it to the wall. ( I have suggested a flat screwdriver but these may be crosshead screws, depending on how long it was fitted)
Undo the screws

Step 4:
Now you need to remove the screws in the bottom off the cistern by placing your flat head screwdriver into the slot and turning the wingnuts under the pan to loosen. If the wingnuts are too tight, spray with WD40 and leave for a while, then use your grips to try to loosen. If this fails you will need to carefully cut off the nuts. Once you have removed the bottom two screws, remove the two remaining screws at the top, back of the cistern fixing it to the wall. make sure to set aside all fixings as you will need them when putting it all back together.
Carefully lift the cistern away from the pan and lay it on the toilet seat covered with a towel to protect it.

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Step 5:
Carefully lift the cistern away from the pan and lay it on the toilet seat covered with a towel to protect it. You should find a large black rubber or foam washer between the cistern and pan, if this has not perished you can reuse this but it is advisable to replace it now while you can. On the bottom of the cistern you will see a large plastic back nut which is securing your old flush valve into the cistern, this should be hand tight, however use your grips if needed to undo this nut and your old flush valve can now easily be removed. While you have the cistern off, also check the two bolts that secure the cistern to the pan are sound and fully tightened to the cistern.
Insert the new, FlushKING valve into the cistern

Step 6:
Make sure the inside and outside of the cistern is clean around the seat of the valve, this will make sure you get a good watertight seal around the hole. Place the new FlushKING flush valve into the hole, ensuring the rubber washer is the right way up to fit the hole as it has two different sizes catered for. once in place and the rubber seal is between the valve and the inside of the cistern, tighten up the large backnut hand tight untill you cant turn it any more. You should not need to use grips as the washer will seal when had tight.
Carefully lower the cistern back into place

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Step 7:
Carefully lower the cistern back into place, ensuring you have replaced the black rubber or foam donut washer between the cistern and the pan. Once back in place you will need to tighten back up the two wing nuts on the bottom a little at a time to ensure an even amount of pressure is applied to the connection. You should now carefully nip up both wingnuts with your grips. Now replace the two wall screws at the top, back of the cistern to fix it to the wall. If your bolts and wingnuts are no good, you can use the flushking cistern fixings pack available here.
Align the valve and adjust the flush

Step 8:
Make sure the flush valve is turned in the cistern to a position whare it will not impeed the fill valves float as if the float cannot move freely it will not fill correctly. You can now set the required amount of flush for your full and half flush levels, and this is crucial to get right to save the most water you can whilst removing the waste in the pan, you can adjust this as many times as you want till you are happy. Instructions on setting the flush levels are in the box with the valve, but it is a simple slider on the valve.
Place the new button on the cistern lid

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Step 9:
Replacing the button couldnt be easier, take off the back nut and place it in the hole making sure the full and half flush rods line up with the paddles at the top of the flush valve in the cister, and secure in place with the back nut. If the rods on the button are too long for your cistern, they can be removed and cut down to the correct size for your cistern. once you have cut them to size and positioned them correctly you can replace the cistern lid.
Connect the water supply, test for leaks and test flush

Step 10:
Now it is time to connect your water supply back to the cistern, switch on the water and check for any leaks by running your fingers over every joint you have worked on. Once you are happy all is dry and there are no leaks, test the flush unit by pressing one button, refilling and then the other button.

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