Step 1:
You normally connect a washing machine to the cold and hot water systems, but quite a few will work with just a cold supply. Dishwashers usually need only a cold supply. If your machine is supplied from the pipe that feeds your kitchen tap, the water will be at mains pressure. If it also needs a hot water supply, this will be at gravity pressure from the cylinder upstairs. Most machines have a flow restrictor in the cold water inlet to even out the pressure difference.

If you’re fitting a washing machine in your bathroom, you won’t be able to put a socket or switched fused connection unit in there. So it’s best to mount the fused connection unit outside the bathroom, and connect your machine to a flex outlet plate in the bathroom.

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Before moving your old washing machine or dishwasher, tie or tape any loose pipes or hoses to the top so any water that’s left in them doesn’t spill all over the floor.

If your machine’s hoses won’t reach the existing supply pipes, you’ll have to drain and cut them, add T-fittings and run branch pipes to the machine. Washing machines and dishwashers need to be plugged into a standard socket, but a common problem in kitchens and utility rooms is that all the sockets are positioned above the work surfaces. A good solution is to run a spur from a socket to a switched fused connection unit above your work surface, and then a cable from this to an unswitched socket below the surface to serve the machine. The connection unit should have a neon to show when the machine is switched on.

If your machine’s hoses won’t reach your existing supply pipes, you’ll need to drain and cut the pipes, add T-fittings and run branch pipes to the machine. These should terminate in mini stop valves to which your machine’s hoses can be connected. If the supply pipes run close to your machine, you can fit T-piece stop valves and screw the hoses to them. Or you might be able to use self-cutting connectors containing isolating valves, which you can install without draining the pipes.

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Your machine’s flexible waste hose has to discharge into a waste pipe or trap above the level of the top of the drum. One option is to hook the hose into the top of an open standpipe with a P-trap at its base. From the trap, the waste pipe must run through your outside wall to a hopper head or gully, or directly into a soil stack. The air gap at the top of the standpipe will stop any dirty water siphoning back into the machine. Some manufacturers recommend a standpipe, and some water companies insist on it. The easiest solution though, is to put your machine next to a sink and change your sink trap to a washing machine trap – which has an inlet for the waste hose. Install a non-return valve to prevent the back-siphonage of waste water; or fix a hook to the underside of the work surface and tie the hose to it, so that it runs higher than the level of the sink overflow.

Usually, a washing machine has nearby hot and cold water pipes extended via T-fittings to reach its supply hoses. Mini stop valves allow you to isolate the machine without having to cut off the water supply. Hook the waste hose into a standpipe with a P-trap.

A dishwasher normally just has a cold water supply. The mini stop valve that connects the supply pipe to the machine’s hose lets you isolate the machine without turning off your water. Connect the waste hose to a washing machine trap beneath the sink.

An adjustable spanner is a handy tool for gripping nuts of different sizes.

Steel wool cleans copper pipes without scratching for a good seal with a connector.
Mini stop valves for washing machines and dishwashers are available in right-angled, in-line and T-piece versions

Don’t want to do this job yourself? Then give Protea Property Maintenance on 02037731030 or 07939830056